Director of Photography on Condé Nast Traveler's Ask a Local at Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor, Siem Reap

Kakadanisha Chang, Gin Butler at Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor, serving a drink at the temple dinner in Angkor for Condé Nast Traveler's Ask a Local, shot by George Jefferies and Kongkea Vann

I was director of photography on Condé Nast Traveler's Ask a Local episode in Siem Reap, filmed in early June. A Day Working at Cambodia's Most Luxurious Hotel follows Kakadanisha Chang, a Gin Butler at Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor who calls herself Nisha, from the Old Market in the morning to an evening temple dinner in the Angkor Archaeological Park, with a visit to a gin distillery in between.

We travelled to Siem Reap the morning after we wrapped Where the Chefs Eat in Phnom Penh, which I've written about in a separate post.

Condé Nast Traveler's Ask a Local with Kakadanisha Chang, Gin Butler at Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor, Siem Reap. Director of photography: George Jefferies

A new format over two days

Ask a Local was a new format for Condé Nast Traveler, and the production scheduled two days for it. Preshita Saha directed again, and the crew was the same as on Where the Chefs Eat. I was director of photography and A camera operator, Kongkea Vann was on B camera, Sokha Hun recorded sound and Bophay OukChan of Cambodia Film Fixers was our fixer. The production came through Mbrella Films, and Bophay arranged our filming permissions with the Apsara Authority, which manages the Angkor Archaeological Park.

I backed up the cards from Where the Chefs Eat overnight, and we left for Siem Reap in the morning with the same kit: two Sony FX6s with Sony FE 24-105mm f/4 G OSS lenses on Cinesaddles, a Deity TC-1 timecode unit and an Atomos Ninja V monitor on each camera. The camera settings were the same as on Where the Chefs Eat, and at the start of each scene we shot the X-Rite ColorChecker Passport on both cameras, followed by the slate app on my phone, which made it clear to the post-production team where we were filming.

We met the Raffles team when we arrived. That evening we did a recce of the filming locations in the hotel, using the Sun Seeker app, which shows where the sun will be throughout the day.

Early light at Angkor

We opened the day with an early start to get the better light, filming Nisha riding her motorbike through the Angkor Archaeological Park, at the South Gate of Angkor Thom on the road between Angkor Wat and the Bayon. "It makes me so proud to be here," she says about seeing the temples.

Filming at the South Gate of Angkor Thom for Condé Nast Traveler's Ask a Local

The Old Market and a pagoda

Nisha visits the Old Market to buy ingredients for the bar. "Absolutely anything in this market could be in a cocktail," she says, pointing out rambutan, durian, dragon fruit and pandan. On her way to the hotel she stops at a pagoda to pray before her shift.

A Gin Butler at Raffles

Nisha explains her job in the first minute: "a gin butler is a butler for absolutely anyone who enjoys gin." She goes from guest to guest with a trolley she calls Fernando, and she makes drinks at the hotel's Elephant Bar. We filmed her making the Angkor Amber, a drink she describes as representing Cambodian pride, with the amber standing for the sunrise and sunset at Angkor.

She also visits the Kulen Gin Distillery for inspiration. She describes Cambodian gin as herbal forward, with juniper taking a back seat to the other botanicals.

The temple dinner

The evening is the Raffles Bespoke Temple Dinner at Thommanon Temple, one of the temples in the Angkor Archaeological Park. Before service Nisha lights candles, with over 500 placed around the site, alongside a stage for Apsara dancers, a platform for the guests' dinner, a spot for the musicians and her bar. We filmed the set-up and the service through to her last drink of the night, a non-alcoholic gin gimlet made with ingredients she'd bought at the Old Market earlier in the day.

The episode ends at Calao Bar, a cocktail bar where Nisha unwinds with a friend after her shift.

Handover

I started uploading to the production's cloud storage from Raffles, where the internet was fast and the hotel offered extra bandwidth if I needed it. We travelled back to Phnom Penh the next day and I finished the upload from my office. There were breaks in the upload, so I went through everything with the post-production team to make sure they had all the footage.

The episode was released on Condé Nast Traveler's YouTube channel at the end of October.

You can see more of my work as a director of photography in Cambodia, including a BBC Travel Show segment at Angkor, where I was shooting producer, director and camera operator. Based in Phnom Penh and available for assignments across Southeast Asia. Drop me a line to discuss your project.

Director of Photography on Condé Nast Traveler's Where the Chefs Eat in Phnom Penh

I was director of photography on Condé Nast Traveler's Where the Chefs Eat episode in Phnom Penh, which has now passed a million views on YouTube. A Pro Chef's Favorite Places to Eat in Phnom Penh, Cambodia follows Rotanak Ros, better known as Chef Nak, to three of the places she eats in the Cambodian capital. They are a Khmer restaurant on Street 360, a modern Khmer tasting menu at the Old Market and a grilled seafood spot on Samdech Monireth Boulevard.

Condé Nast Traveler's Where the Chefs Eat with Chef Nak in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Director of photography: George Jefferies

How the job came together

I was hired locally through Bophay OukChan of Cambodia Film Fixers, who was the fixer on the shoot. I've written about working with Bophay before, in my post on flying drones in Cambodia. The production came through Mbrella Films, Joshua Dixon's production company in Bangkok.

The episode was directed by Preshita Saha, a director at Condé Nast who oversees the shoots for the series. We met her at the hotel on the morning of the shoot and were filming within half an hour.

The crew was small. I was director of photography and operated A camera. Kongkea Vann was B camera, and Sokha Hun recorded sound. I'd worked with Sokha before on Loot, the feature documentary about Douglas Latchford and the theft and return of looted Khmer artefacts to Cambodia. On Loot I filmed the master interview with Thanaren Than, a former cultural heritage investigator, and the return of 14 artefacts from the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

It was my first time working with Kongkea, but I'd seen his work at this year's Cambodia International Film Festival. He was director of photography on Fresh as Daisy, Socheata Van's short about two young women from conservative families in the same Phnom Penh neighbourhood, which screened in the festival's Cambodia in Short programme. He's a Cambodian filmmaker and cinematographer, and he co-directed and shot the short film Sound of the Night with Chanrado Sok. That film was nominated for the Pardino d'oro at the Locarno Film Festival.

Setting up two cameras to match

We shot handheld on two Sony FX6s, and the job began with a technical preparation meeting the day before the shoot to match the two cameras. As director of photography, I was responsible for lining them up so the footage would cut together in the edit. Both were set to S-Log3 in S-Gamut3.Cine with a 180-degree shutter, recording internally in XAVC-I. File names were set up to differentiate Cam A from Cam B.

Each camera carried a Deity TC-1 timecode unit, and we checked that both were syncing with the Sound Devices MixPre-10 that Sokha was recording into. Each camera was also fitted with an Atomos Ninja V as a monitor, which gave us the option of recording ProRes RAW. The footage was being uploaded straight to the production's cloud storage, though, and the file sizes would have been massive and taken a long time to upload.

At the start of each scene, we shot an X-Rite ColorChecker Passport on both cameras so the colourist could match them. That was followed by a slate app on my phone with a short description, so the editors knew which scene they were looking at.

We both shot on the Sony FE 24-105mm f/4 G OSS, using Cinesaddles. The whole episode was shot in under eight hours at locations across the city, so although we had more lenses in the bag, there wasn't time to change them. The built-in stabilisation helps when you're shooting at that pace. The zoom range also covers you in a small kitchen, where you need to get as wide as you can, and lets you punch in for a close-up at the 105mm end, as long as you can hold it steady.

Matching the series style

Before the shoot, Kongkea and I watched earlier episodes of Where the Chefs Eat together to study the framing and shooting style, so our footage would match the rest of the series. There was no gimbal and no drone. Everything was handheld.

I assigned Kongkea the close-ups of the food being prepared and served. That left me free to stay with Chef Nak and get the meat and bones of each scene, picking off food shots wherever I could. We worked with the available light throughout and made everything look as good as we could.

Three restaurants

The first stop was Meatophum, on Street 360 near Tuol Sleng. Chef Nak talked with the owner, Meas Phanida, and worked through a mixed banana blossom salad, fried fish with seasonal pickles, Khmer beef sour soup and mango sticky rice.

Where to Get the Best Cambodian Food in Phnom Penh, filmed at Meatophum for Condé Nast Traveler

Next was Pi Sa, at the Old Market, which serves a modern Khmer tasting menu. The episode closes by naming Pi Sa as a 2026 Condé Nast Traveler Hot List restaurant winner. I'd definitely go back for the tasting menu, and for the quality of the food, it's good value.

Inside Pi Sa, Phnom Penh, filmed for Condé Nast Traveler

The last stop was 123 Grilled Seafood on Samdech Monireth Boulevard, past the Olympic Stadium. This was street food at night, so we worked with the light that was there and positioned Chef Nak where it fell best. If friends and I fancied seafood, it's where I'd take them.

Grilled seafood at 123 Grilled Seafood, Phnom Penh, filmed for Condé Nast Traveler

Working with Chef Nak again

I first met Chef Nak when I was working as camera assistant and drone operator on CNN's Nomad with Carlton McCoy. We filmed with her at a floating village on the Tonle Sap, near Siem Reap.

In this episode of Where the Chefs Eat, she describes how the capital's food comes together. "Something amazing about food culture in Phnom Penh is that it is a hub," she says. "When people come, they bring their own traditions from where they grew up and that makes the whole thing quite diverse."

Handover

At the end of the shoot, I uploaded the footage directly to the production's cloud storage, wrote up camera notes and went through everything with the team. The morning after we wrapped, we were on the road to Siem Reap to film an episode of Ask a Local for Condé Nast Traveler, so I carried on uploading from the road. I'll cover that shoot in a separate post.

A million views

The episode has now passed a million views on Condé Nast Traveler's YouTube channel, and three shorts cut from it have been published alongside it.

You can see more of my work as a director of photography in Cambodia, including the CNA Insider documentary on the Funan Techo Canal, where I also ran a two-camera setup.

Got a shoot coming up in Cambodia or Southeast Asia? Feel free to get in touch.